Flatpack Yurt: the roofbeams

The roof beams.

I put in three sets of cross-braces between the uprights for the yurt, apart from the doorway which only has them top and bottom.

the yurt skeleton structure
three sets of cross braces between the uprights

The strength of the structure of a yurt comes from enclosing the top of the upright beams so that the roof doesn’t collapse. This is called a ‘tension cable’ and I added two of these, on opposite sides, to the outside of the top of the walls where I hoped they would nestle safely under the ‘eaves’.

tension ratchets added to the walls
tension ratchets added to the walls
guides inserted for tension ropes
guides inserted for tension ropes

Most Mongolian yurts are made with a 30 degree pitch in the roof so that snow will slide off and not collapse the roof. Deep snow is a very rare event in Cornwall UK so I decided to make my roof with a 24 degree pitch, enough for the endless rain and if necessary I would push the snow off from the inside.

Although I failed my maths ‘O’ level 3 times, in adult years I have got better at calculating stuff when it is applied to practical situations. I even run the Parish Council audits where I live. Those sums in school maths where you are given the diameter of a bath plug and the amount of water in a bath to calculate how long it takes to empty still leave me with a sense of the futility of existence. I mean, who cares?

This calculation was more like the trigonometry question (which I also couldn’t understand) where you had to calculate the height of a tree by knowing what time it is and measuring the shadow of the tree. But what do I know? I found an equation online about calculating the length of the third side of a triangle. It is a squared + b squared = c squared .

calculating the length of roofbeams
calculating the length of roofbeams

The first side of the triangle [a] is the height of the apex of the roof over that of the external vertical supports (160cm above floor) which was 85cm. This gave me a total height at the centre of the yurt of 245 cm above the floor.

The second side [b] is basically the radius of the yurt which I had at 264.5cm.

The calculation I made was [a] = 7225 + [b] = 69696 = [c] 76921. Un-squaring this gave me 277.3cm, which I increased to 280cm to give a bit of overhang to the roofbeams. I still don’t know if this was the right calculation but anyway, it worked OK. I added roofbeam guides to the top of each pole to hold them in place while I figured out how to join them at the centre.

guides to hold the roofbeams
guides to hold the roofbeams